What was Booth wearing?

[Rick Smith]

Greetings fellow Symposiumites,

I'm trying to determine, to the best of our ability, what clothing John Wilkes Booth was wearing when he assassinated Lincoln and then escaped for 12 days. I'm hoping you guys might provide me with a sense of direction as to where to look for this information. I understand that there may be differing accounts as to his apparel, but any and all ideas or sources that you might know of would be appreciated. Some day in the near future I am hoping to get myself a set of Civil War era clothing and, if I'm already going to be spending the $$$ for the clothes, I'd like them to at least resemble the clothing of the assassin. This would come especially in handy come April when I'm hoping to recreate his time in the pine thicket.

Also, for the 19th century fashionistas on the forum, could you give me a basic education on what a gentleman like Booth would be likely to have been wearing underneath his "top layer" of clothes? What were the undergarments of the day that I will need to have for authenticity and warmth?

Dave, Looks like you have your answers to the clothing question. By the time you are spending the nights in the pine thicket, remember, you will only be wearing one boot. You should have a shoe with the end cut out on your left. The one boot should be a mid thigh riding boot which was for the purpose of giving you the ability to grip the saddle and provide a secure seat. The under garments should not be of a fitted or knitted variety that you see on western movies. Underclothes for men were usually made of cotton osnaberg, muslin or flannel in various weights. The under drawers buttoned in front and tied in the back. The undershirt usually had one button at the top. Remember that Booth's undershirt neck was fastened with a gold stick pin he had been given by Dan Bryant. The button must have been lost at some point. Email me, I can direct you to all the best places to get your gear.

Rick

[Cliff Roberts]

Dave, I'm going strictly by memory here, but as I recall Booth was buried in the same clothes he'd been wearing when he was shot at Garrett's place. I found several published accounts by persons who were present when Booth's body was returned to his family and the box first opened, one of which described in detail his clothing including the fact that he was wearing long-johns. I also recall that when a reporter interviewed the Garrett boys some years after Booth's death, one said Booth had been dressed in a dark suit, nothing fancy but of good quality. Newspaper reports at the time of his autopsy first reported that he was dressed in Confederate gray, then said his clothing was actually black and covered with dust. I'm mentioning these as leads; I don't have the time right now to dig up the files, but let me know if you need them. Good luck.

[Rick Smith]

Dave,

If I knew how to post photos, I would post some of the type of hat Booth was wearing and those of undergarments worn by men in the 1860's.

Maybe I could send them to Roger so he could post them for everyone to see.

In any case, I have sent them to you by email.

Rick

[Dave Taylor]

Dave, Looks like you have your answers to the clothing question. By the time you are spending the nights in the pine thicket, remember, you will only be wearing one boot. You should have a shoe with the end cut out on your left. The one boot should be a mid thigh riding boot which was for the purpose of giving you the ability to grip the saddle and provide a secure seat. The under garments should not be of a fitted or knitted variety that you see on western movies. Underclothes for men were usually made of cotton osnaberg, muslin or flannel in various weights. The under drawers buttoned in front and tied in the back. The undershirt usually had one button at the top. Remember that Booth's undershirt neck was fastened with a gold stick pin he had been given by Dan Bryant. The button must have been lost at some point. Email me, I can direct you to all the best places to get your gear.

Rick

Thank you, Rick. There's so much to remember about all this stuff. Lindsey said it would be best to take a trip up to a period clothing store in Gettysburg in order to make sure I get all the items I need and to make sure they are fitted properly. Would you agree that's the way to go? Or would I be better off, after measuring myself, to use the expertise of people like you a Betty to verify online purchases for different online retailers of period clothing?

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Dave, I'm going strictly by memory here, but as I recall Booth was buried in the same clothes he'd been wearing when he was shot at Garrett's place. I found several published accounts by persons who were present when Booth's body was returned to his family and the box first opened, one of which described in detail his clothing including the fact that he was wearing long-johns. I also recall that when a reporter interviewed the Garrett boys some years after Booth's death, one said Booth had been dressed in a dark suit, nothing fancy but of good quality. Newspaper reports at the time of his autopsy first reported that he was dressed in Confederate gray, then said his clothing was actually black and covered with dust. I'm mentioning these as leads; I don't have the time right now to dig up the files, but let me know if you need them. Good luck.

Cliff,

Thanks for this. The Garrett boys did talk about how Booth had a nice (not stellar) suit of clothes. He offered to trade his suit for Will Garrett's Confederate uniform, but Will said no. Am I correct that Booth's Ford's Theatre ensemble (black frock coat, blue flannel shirt, likely black vest) would be considered a nice suit? Or did he change clothing over the escape route somewhere?

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Rick,

Thanks again. I'll post the images from the mail when I get home, later.

Since I can find this image online, is this an appropriate "frock coat" and "slouch hat" or was his assassination apparel different?

[Rick Smith]

Dave,

A trip to Gettysburg would be the thing. I can put you in touch with a very good source.

I will be up there tomorrow.

There are some very reputable providers online also; one in particular.

Ask Laurie about the black wool trousers {with suspenders} which are in one of the bedrooms at Surratt's. They are on a sort of permanent loan from me. They just might fit you.

I would be happy to help you with all this stuff.

Come to Surratt's this Saturday and we can do some planning.

Rick

[Dave Taylor]

Dave,

A trip to Gettysburg would be the thing. I can put you in touch with a very good source.

I will be up there tomorrow.

There are some very reputable providers online also; one in particular.

Ask Laurie about the black wool trousers {with suspenders} which are in one of the bedrooms at Surratt's. They are on a sort of permanent loan from me. They just might fit you.

I would be happy to help you with all this stuff.

Come to Surratt's this Saturday and we can do some planning.

Rick

Thank you very much, Rick. I was planning on coming to Surratt's on Saturday to see Lindsey give one of her Christmas tour anyway. I'll meet up with you then.

[Rick Smith]

Dave,

The style of frock coat in the photo would be fine, although it seems to be closer to a style known as a paletot, but frock coats did vary a bit in style.

The hat Booth is wearing in the photo is not a common slouch hat. It has a flat crown or may even be telescoped and has a curled brim. I sent the photos to Roger hoping he will post them.

Rick

[RJNorton]

Maybe I could send them to Roger so he could post them for everyone to see.
Rick

Many thanks for sending these images, Rick!

Mid 19th Century Underdrawers

Mid 19th Century Undershirt

Common Wool Felted Slouch Hat

Rick wearing his slouch hat

[Rsmyth]

Dave, apparently Booth was wearing 7 spurs and they were all different.

[Dave Taylor]

Is Booth's hat in the picture above a "flat top" style slouch hat? It seems to look similar to this:

http://www.ccsutlery.com/store/hat-slouc...t-top.html

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While these may not be an accessory in the truest sense, I'd appreciate additional eyes and expertise to verify that these two replica pistols from Amazon, match Booth's design wise. I know the coloring is off.

Booth's colt #1:


Cheap(ish) non-firing Amazon equivalent?:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AN1SO8/ref=...RF86MNDZ1M

Booth's colt #2:


Cheap(ish) non-firing Amazon equivalent?:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002S9MAE/ref=...20X5HUK791

[Rick Smith]

Dave,

The handgun on top is a replica Colt Army Model 1860.

The others are replica Colt Navy Models 1851.

The hat in the photo you posted is a bit more modern than the 1860's.

I will send you a photo of the hat Booth is wearing.

Rick

[L Verge]

One of the sources mentions the slouch hat as an army slouch. I think that would be more like the rounded (almost head-shaped) crown slouch that Rick is wearing in photo above.

Someone mentioned the possibility that Booth changed clothes along the way. I have often wondered if he got some fresh things from Dr. Mudd. Shirts in those days were not custom sized, for instance. Vests can be adjusted, etc. As for a hat at the end, that must have burned in the barn. Also, the fugitives were at Mudd's long enough for the servants to have washed his clothes and beat the dirt off his trousers and coat. If you believe his horse rolled on him, portions of his coat and trousers would definitely need cleaning -- in fact, mud and dust from the road would be on most of his clothes even if he had not taken a spill.

[LincolnMan]

Notice the tie Rick is wearing.

[Rick Smith]

Bill,

Had not noticed that at first; the checked neck tie you spoke of in Kennelly's book, which I really enjoyed by the way. Must have had a more profound effect on me than I realized.

Rick

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One of the sources mentions the slouch hat as an army slouch. I think that would be more like the rounded (almost head-shaped) crown slouch that Rick is wearing in photo above.

Someone mentioned the possibility that Booth changed clothes along the way. I have often wondered if he got some fresh things from Dr. Mudd. Shirts in those days were not custom sized, for instance. Vests can be adjusted, etc. As for a hat at the end, that must have burned in the barn. Also, the fugitives were at Mudd's long enough for the servants to have washed his clothes and beat the dirt off his trousers and coat. If you believe his horse rolled on him, portions of his coat and trousers would definitely need cleaning -- in fact, mud and dust from the road would be on most of his clothes even if he had not taken a spill.

Laurie,

It is interesting that you mention "Army" hat. Bill Wickham, the man who makes the hats I wear, puts period correct liners inside his hats. The original liner in the hat I am wearing in the photo has a stamped maker's mark in it which reads, "Army Hat." It was later replaced.

Rick

[J. Beckert]

If I'm not mistaken, the low crowned hat Booth is wearing in that photo is a dress hat, a "low topper" or "John Bull". A stiff hat covered with beaver skin - a lower version of the popular stovepipe. Expecting a ride into a wet, cold night, I'm guessing he would have opted for something more functional, like the one the devilishly handsome Mr. Smith is wearing.......