White clothing in summer?

[Donna McCreary]

One of my favorite descriptions of men's clothing comes from "Victorian and Edwardian Fashion - A Photographic Survey" by Alison Gernsheim: "A leading tailor deplored that black frock coats were sometimes to be seen at weddings. For such a festive occasion the frock coat should be made of blue, claret, or mulberry-colored cloth, with or without a velvet collar, and worn with a white waistcoat and pale lavender trousers. This outfit was recommended for the bridegroom as well as the guests."
Laurie, can you imagine John Surrat wearing lavender trousers? I think it is quite an image.

Various quotes I have read regarding Lincoln's clothing include one which states during the Lincoln - Douglas debates Lincoln wore "a snuff-colored, short coated suit during one debate, again white linen, and once a white linen duster over a blue suit with brass buttons." The last one is my personal favorite.

During his presidency, Lincoln was seen wearing "a well starched linen coat and pants with a plush waistcoat, of a sort of plum color."
A visitor to Washington in 1864 remembered Lincoln wearing a "fashionable cut blue chinchilla coat and a brand new silk hat of the latest mode with buff colored gloves."
Now . . that is high fashion!

Gene, yes, we do realize that white is difficult to keep clean. However, fabric dyes being what they were in the era, white fabric was washable whereas many other fabrics lost their color during the cleaning process. This is one reason why under garments were always white. Plus, since men and women had to maintain the latest fashions, people of 'station' were expected to replace their clothing on an annual basis. One would often wear a garment until it was too dirty to wear again, then replace it.

[Gene C]

Thanks, that was informative AND interesting. Move over Joan Rivers and the Fashion Police I can almost picture some of you ladies doing a Victorian Fashion Pollice satire at the Surratt Conference

[Rick Smith]

(09-11-2012 01:58 PM)Laurie Verge Wrote:  Donna,

Thank you so much for clearing that up as far as Lincoln's clothing - and men's in general. I have always assumed that there would be a variety of colors worn by Lincoln. We have sales records for clothing bought by John Surratt, Sr. (a middle-class gent), and he enjoyed some pretty colorful outfits, including plaid pants, vests, etc.

Maybe history is still in mourning for Lincoln, and we just assume that he should fit the picture of a dark, somber fellow???

Laurie,

Plaid and patterned trousers and vests were very popular in America and Great Britain during the 1850's with fairly wild combinations of patterns and colors being worn together, so John Surratt would have been right on the cutting edge of fashion.

Rick

[LincolnMan]

It's the image of Lincoln in the black suit that we have been saturated with since he died. He doesn't seem much like the Lincoln we have come to know otherwise.

[JMadonna]

Knew a guy at work who always came in wearing screaming loud golf pants in either red, green or yellow & bright colored shirts. I found out later that he was a 'ladies man' whose wife dressed him in those clothes to restrain him. He was colorblind.

[LincolnMan]

That story just made my day!

[ELCore]

I chose the May 7, 1858, photo to use as the Facebook Profile Picture on Real Lincoln Quotes. I found the cropped head shot on-line somewhere; I scanned the full image from the Kunhardts' Lincoln: An Illustrated Biography because I could not find a good-quality image on the Internet.



This is my description of the photo on Facebook: "This portrait is unmistakably Abraham Lincoln, yet it is an atypical photo of him. First, it is the only known studio portrait in which he is wearing a white suit. Second, he is clean-shaven, which shows up the strong jawline of his angular face. (This photo was taken a couple of years before he grew his beard.) Third, it is easy to see that his neck was long and narrow; after becoming president, he usually wore a high collar to try to hide his neck. Fourth, one can easily see the wrinkles, creases, and furrows in his skin: this is a real man, aged 49 years, not just a figure of legend. Fifth, his very high hairline and large ears are quite noticeable. Finally, and perhaps most importantly, one can clearly see the piercing quality of his gaze -- his eyes lively, deep pools of tranquility even in black and white (they were actually light grayish/bluish). No wonder he has been so difficult to describe, so ineffable to fathom."



I note the following on Facebook: "According to the photographer (who was only 18 years old at the time he took this photograph), Lincoln had said, 'These clothes are dirty and unfit for a picture', but Byers prevailed upon him anyway."

I think everybody and anybody should be able to see the photos here; if not, because of Facebook's security, let me know & I'll find another way to post them.

[RJNorton]

Lane, great photo! By the way that's one of the photos where you can see the little bumps on the lips. That is one of Dr. Sotos' strongest arguments that (in his opinion) Lincoln suffered from a rare genetic cancer syndrome called MEN2B (multiple endocrine neoplasia, type 2B). Dr. Sotos argues that Willie and Tad also had these bumps but Robert did not.