What was Booth wearing?

[Dave Taylor]

Greetings fellow Symposiumites,

I'm trying to determine, to the best of our ability, what clothing John Wilkes Booth was wearing when he assassinated Lincoln and then escaped for 12 days. I'm hoping you guys might provide me with a sense of direction as to where to look for this information. I understand that there may be differing accounts as to his apparel, but any and all ideas or sources that you might know of would be appreciated. Some day in the near future I am hoping to get myself a set of Civil War era clothing and, if I'm already going to be spending the $$$ for the clothes, I'd like them to at least resemble the clothing of the assassin. This would come especially in handy come April when I'm hoping to recreate his time in the pine thicket.

Also, for the 19th century fashionistas on the forum, could you give me a basic education on what a gentleman like Booth would be likely to have been wearing underneath his "top layer" of clothes? What were the undergarments of the day that I will need to have for authenticity and warmth?

[Tom Bogar]

Dave, my sources indicate that that evening he was wearing (in addition to the infamous "slouch hat") a black frock coat over a blue flannel shirt, dark britches, and tall riding boots (a complete change, of course, from his dapper outfit at noon).

[irshgrl500]

Dave, here is what I found about Booth's apparel, and personal items, when he left the National Hotel.

http://www.fords.org/home/explore-lincoln/learn-story
http://www.fords.org/sites/default/files...incoln.pdf
Booth wore a black felt slouch hat, a black wool frock coat, big knee high, black leather riding boots, with spurs,

http://rogerjnorton.com/Lincoln36.html
7:00
Booth put on black calf-length boots, new spurs, a black frock coat, black pants, and a black slouch hat. He picked up his diary. Booth carried a compass, a small derringer, and a long hunting knife that could be stuck inside his pants on the left side. Booth loaded the .44-caliber derringer with a lead ball. It was a single shot pistol.
http://rogerjnorton.com/Lincoln83.html
Also, Booth was wearing a vest, at the time his body was identified at the post mortem identification. He also had 2 tattoos on his hand and wrist. Both the left wrist, and hand, both were tattoos, of his initials (JWB) in indie blue ink; the smaller tattoo was between his thumb & forefinger, which he had, since he was a boy. The tattoo on his wrist was larger, and noticeable, such that it prompted positive identification.
http://www.victoriana.com/Mens-Clothing/...races.html
As far as undergarments go; long underwear or "long johns" (worn by the Boxer, John Sullivan, initially.), or also known as "unionsuits", were not introduced until 1871(?), or there about. So, he would have likely worn a woolen undershirt under his shirt, and it was likely made by a family member or by hand, as sewing machines were new and were still being manufactured in the UK (1859-1863), and were not commonly used the make clothing until about the 1890s. He likely had wool socks or stockings, with his riding boots. He likely had Cavalry boots, which he wore during the day, and riding boots, at night. He wasn't able to take much clothing, or his valise (which he normally carried), with him, in his quest to escape. Booth also has suspenders to hold his pants up, and buttons and hooks were used as closures on garments, rather than zippers, which weren't introduced until 1891.

[J. Beckert]

(12-11-2013 09:45 PM)Dave Taylor Wrote:  Also, for the 19th century fashionistas on the forum, could you give me a basic education on what a gentleman like Booth would be likely to have been wearing underneath his "top layer" of clothes? What were the undergarments of the day that I will need to have for authenticity and warmth?

I've thought of your plans to sleep in the thicket over these last few very cold nights. I hope the gals tell you he was probably wearing a union suit underneath. (A reenactor's site I found said no - they came along in the 1870's) I have one I only wear in extremely cold weather and it's a great help keeping warm. Also, this first site looks like it has some nice reproductions, but I'm sure the docents (and former ones) at Surratt Hosue has some closer hooks for period clothes.
http://www.historyinthemaking.org/index.html

http://chicostume.org/handouts/VictorianUnderwear.pdf

http://passionforthepast.blogspot.com/20...ng-me.html

[BettyO]

Dave -

Here are a couple of good sites to provide period "accessories" - keep in mind that this site: "The Gentleman's Emporium" is good for accessories, etc. but that most of the site deals with 1870s to 1880s clothing.

http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/gentlemans.php

Still, all in all, it's a good place to start.

Regarding Gent's "small clothes"; i.e. "unmentionables" or underwear - keep in mind that gentlemen's undergarments were two piece at the time. The red or white "Union Suit" didn't come into being until the later half of the 1870s into the 1880s and 1890s and is inappropriate.

Men wore a flannel undershirt and drawers - two separate pieces - check out this site:

http://www.memorialhall.mass.edu/activit...0_man.html

Here is another good picture of modern 19th Century drawers - but ignore the "red Union Suit" -

http://www.etsy.com/listing/159628083/si...ref=market

Also remember that the "sweat suit" looking Navy outfit in which Powell died was a blue Navy UNDERSHIRT and blue trousers. This was simply a variation of a general undershirt of the era - very akin to a sweatshirt, but more like today's long sleeved T-shirt, but of a light flannel knit material.

[LincolnMan]

Booth would have been wearing suspenders for his trousers. Also, being the dapper gentleman that he was- there might have been a cravet or some sort of bow-tie around his collar?

[JMadonna]

Definitely was not wearing 'Union' underwear.

[Dave Taylor]

(12-11-2013 10:59 PM)Tom Bogar Wrote:  Dave, my sources indicate that that evening he was wearing (in addition to the infamous "slouch hat") a black frock coat over a blue flannel shirt, dark britches, and tall riding boots (a complete change, of course, from his dapper outfit at noon).

Thanks, Tom! I assume this description come from various eyewitnesses?

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(12-12-2013 01:23 AM)irshgrl500 Wrote:  Booth wore a black felt slouch hat, a black wool frock coat, big knee high, black leather riding boots, with spurs,

This is why this community is so helpful. Even though I knew he had them (and lost several of them during his escape), I completely forgot about spurs until you reminded me.

[Gene C]

IF you are really going to try and totally simulate the experience, you need a side-kick. Someone who has done this before, someone who is knowledgeable, but not too bright. Someone helpful, but who can also be a real pain in the a***** (ankle).

Sorry, I'm busy that weekend.

[J. Beckert]

From Joseph Hazleton's statement.

"“I happened to turn my head toward the main entrance and saw Wilkes-Booth enter. He stopped a moment to say a word to Mr. Buckingham, the door-keeper, then started upstairs to the Dress Circle. As he passed along the side aisle toward the President’s box, I noticed the change in his dress. When he spoke to me in the afternoon he was dressed in the height of fashion…now he was wearing heavy riding boots, spurs, a blue flannel shirt and an army slouch hat. I wondered…what he was doing there on such a gala night dressed in such a garb."

[Dave Taylor]

(12-12-2013 07:24 AM)LincolnMan Wrote:  Booth would have been wearing suspenders for his trousers. Also, being the dapper gentleman that he was- there might have been a cravet or some sort of bow-tie around his collar?

I was wondering about his neck wear as well, Bill. He must have been wearing something, but was it a tie or a cravat?

[LincolnMan]

According to Ardyth Kennelly-author of The Spur- Booth was wearing a "checkered necktie."

[L Verge]

(12-11-2013 09:45 PM)Dave Taylor Wrote:  Greetings fellow Symposiumites,

I'm trying to determine, to the best of our ability, what clothing John Wilkes Booth was wearing when he assassinated Lincoln and then escaped for 12 days. I'm hoping you guys might provide me with a sense of direction as to where to look for this information. I understand that there may be differing accounts as to his apparel, but any and all ideas or sources that you might know of would be appreciated. Some day in the near future I am hoping to get myself a set of Civil War era clothing and, if I'm already going to be spending the $$$ for the clothes, I'd like them to at least resemble the clothing of the assassin. This would come especially in handy come April when I'm hoping to recreate his time in the pine thicket.

Also, for the 19th century fashionistas on the forum, could you give me a basic education on what a gentleman like Booth would be likely to have been wearing underneath his "top layer" of clothes? What were the undergarments of the day that I will need to have for authenticity and warmth?

Your best "gentleman's valet" on this subject, Dave, is Rick Smith. I tease him about being our "Mr. Peacock" at Surratt House, but he knows men's fashions very well and has dealt with Gentleman's Emporium and other sources for period clothing.

And, I certainly hope that - after your adventure this spring - you will use your period clothing and become a guide at Surratt House???

[Gene C]

What kind of tie does one wear with a flannel shirt?

[LincolnMan]

Apparently, a checkered necktie!