Seed Pearl Necklace and Bracelets

[Donna McCreary]

   

This photo of Mary was taken sometime in 1861 prior to the month of September. We know this because Elizabeth Todd Grimsley (Mary's first cousin) came to Washington DC with Mary and stayed for a six month visit. When Elizabeth left to return to Springfield, IL, Mary gave her this dress. Currently, the dress is in the First Ladies' Collection at the Smithsonian. It was given to them by the family, so the documentation on the dress is considered solid. It has been altered, but it is the same dress. Look carefully at Mary's jewelry. She is wearing the Tiffany Seed-pearl Parure consisting of a necklace, brooch, pair of earrings, and a pair of bracelets. The necklace and bracelets from this set are at the LOC. No one knows what became of the brooch and earrings.

   

This photo of Mary was also taken in early 1861. Some existing CDV's of this image are dated 1861. Others are dated 1862, but it was a common practice for a photographer to reprint photographs. Many believe this gown was Mary's alternative inaugural ball gown for 1861. (Obviously she chose to wear the blue silk instead of this one.) Note the jewelry. She wears the Tiffany earrings, bracelets, and brooch. Look closely at the necklace. It is similar, but different. The medallions are more circular than the ones found on the other pieces. It is impossible to know why this different necklace was worn. Did she purchase this one and then exchange it at a later date? Did this one come from a different store? Was this one loaned to her and then she ordered a different necklace? Any of these reasons may explain why the "paid" date is different from the "purchase" date. Exactly why the difference, we just do not know.

No matter the reason for the different necklaces, both are lovely and prove than Mary had exquisite taste in jewelry.

For more information, see FASHIONABLE FIRST LADY, pages 30-31; 38-39; and pages 44-49.