Mary Lincoln Extra Credit Questions

[L Verge]

I think Mrs. Lincoln's cloak (and since it appears to be full-length, that word is more proper than "cape") was on display at Ford's during the recent 150 commemorations. Gloria's description of the dress' fabric appears to match what is shown on the Chicago HS page.

As for Mary's head gear, I would totally agree with Eva. The head covering shown again on the Chicago Historical Society page is very similar to what ladies of the period would wear while riding in a carriage or walking on the street - especially when the weather was nippy. Notice that it was designed to cover everything but the face. I own several quilted hoods that were designed for winter wear and one is definitely for evening use. They also have a little apron effect at the nape of the neck to fend off cold breezes.

In bad weather, and for more informal occasions, ladies often wore a very ugly head covering known as a calash or a scuttle bonnet. This is very likely what Mrs. Surratt or Mrs. Holohan was wearing when Richard Smoot supposedly came up to the Surratt boardinghouse that night. He referred to it as a sunbonnet, but it most certainly must have been a calash.

Once the lady was inside, the bonnet would be taken off, but there was usually a small veil or even a decorative snood that covered the hair -- especially for married women. It was improper for both men and women to keep the heavier head gear on once inside. I remember my aunt being furious after entertaining a relative ("a home economics teacher who should have known better!") that kept her hat on all during dinner. This was in the 1950s. (It didn't help one bit that the woman pointed out that my aunt should have served mint jelly with the pork roast instead of apple sauce...). But, I digress.

Wasn't there a mention of Mrs. Lincoln losing her veiling as she went across Tenth Street to the Petersen House?