Seed Pearl Necklace and Bracelets

[L Verge]

(05-21-2019 02:29 AM)James Wrote:  

(03-27-2018 01:07 PM)Donna McCreary Wrote:  Since some would consider me an expert on 19th century fashion, and definitely the clothing of Mary Lincoln, I have some comments about the daguerreotype previously mentioned. I did go to the website and read the commentary about the image.

This image was not created in 1861.
Since photography was new and expensive, most people wore their newest and best fashion when sitting for a photograph. Let's assume the couple in the photo did the same.
Someone previously mentioned that the dress in the photo appears to have been from the 1850's or as early as the 1840's. Based on years of research, my vote is for the 1840's - or at least the dress is from the 1840's. Day dresses (and this is a day dress not a ball gown) are unique because of the bodice style. They have tighter sleeves and the trim detail is placed from the elbow to the wrist. Bodices have a narrow shoulder line than previous fashions. Bodices often have flat folds in the front, and the waist line is lower and pointed. These details are all visible in the image. The women wears an 1840's lace collar (not a cape) that is wider than those of the 1860's. Her hairstyle is that of the 1840's with the hair closer to the head on the top and adorned with spaniel curls.

By now, most historians realize that Mary wore a blue, watered silk, ball gown with a bertha of d'Alencon lace, a head dress containing a blue ostrich feather, and the seed-pearl parure that had been recently purchased at Tiffany & Co.

Yes, there are older books which mistakenly name one of the white ball gowns as the inaugural gown. I believe this is because in his book, Lloyd Ostendorf speculated one of these gowns was worn at the inaugural ball. He made a mistake. It happens. Lloyd was not knowledgeable about women's fashions, nor did he research Mary's attire.

Concerning the purchase date of the Tiffany seed-pearl parure . . . According to John Loring's book, TIFFANY'S 150 YEARS, the set was purchased during the New York stop of the inaugural trip to Washington on February 20, 1861.

Laurie, I so wish I lived closer to you! I would love to attend some of the classes you mentioned and would enjoy seeing your d'Alencon lace. And yes, I too must say "sorry gents" for including so much women's fashion information . . . but admit it . . . you found it interesting too . . . now didn't you?

Hi Donna McCreary ..... as an expert on Victorian clothing and accessories, was it customary to wear a seed pearl necklace atop a white Point d'Alencon lace collar? Also, would it be at all unusual for a Victorian woman to wear an ultra-expensive lace collar with a 'day dress'? Thank you for your expertise.

I hope that Donna McCreary gets the word that her expertise is needed here! I am no expert, but I have looked at many period photos of women in day dresses, afternoon dresses, walking outfits, riding habits, etc. over the years at Surratt House Museum (where our docents are always in period garb). I subsequently searched period photos online last night after seeing your post.

Except for ball gowns, most of the examples were of ladies with dresses covering up to the neck, and the majority of the dresses sported lace collars. I could not determine the detail, quality, or value of the lace, of course, but it certainly appears that women preferred the lace collars - at least on the dresses that they chose for their photographs.

That said, I also did not (and can't remember ever) seeing a necklace of any sort laying on top of the collar. Brooches, bar pins, and ribbon "bow" ties (popular in mid-century) predominate. In fact, the most familiar photo of Mary Surratt shows such a tie with what appears to be a brooch atop it. I suspect that necklaces were reserved for ball gowns or lockets with longer chains that could tuck under the collar allowing the locket or pendant to appear farther down on the chest. Don't quote me on that, however.

As for your question regarding expensive lace, I am not even going to guess on that one. Are your questions related to a photograph that you own or a subject that has been expounded on earlier on this great forum?