Lloyd Ostendorf's Book of Mary Lincoln Photos

[Donna McCreary]

I think he was teasing Mary as he often did. I also agree that Lincoln would not have kept up with fashionable style.
Plus, the dress had a long train - and I think the joke is more about the tail than the neckline.

Take a look at some of the Godey's fashion plates from 1860 -1863 and note the extremely low necklines. (Try the links below)

http://www.vintagevictorian.com/images/1...10-cpb.jpg

https://karleeaturner.files.wordpress.co...r-1858.jpg


Also keep in mind that these are drawings - and the human body is slightly exaggerated. You can tell that the gowns are completely off the shoulder with a straight line of fabric across the chest. Add a corset underneath, and the wearer had a raised bosom making the neckline seem even lower than it really was.
These dresses were worn at the most formal functions such as state receptions, grand balls -- events we would now refer to as "white tie."

Concerning when it was vogue to wear a lower neckline . . . the Regency era had very low necklines for formal wear.

http://www.wemakehistory.com/Fashion/Reg...s/RL03.jpg

Some of the originals I have seen appear to just barely cover the nipple area of the breast.

It is amazing that the in early - mid 19th century, a lady could have the majority of her bosom on display at formal events, but was disgraced if she showed too much of her legs. Of course, a lady could lift her skirts when walking through muddy streets (and there were skirt lifters made especially for that purpose) but her legs were still covered with layers of petticoats.

Again, remember that this style was only worn to evening formal events. Day wear, dinner dresses, morning attire, dresses made to be worn in a carriage were completely different.