Mrs. Lincoln’s Salon: Her Form Inclines To Stoutness

[Donna McCreary]

When I was at the Chicago History Museum examining items which belonged to Mary Lincoln, the curator said that all of the dresses in their collection are "attributed" to Mary. There is not one that that has enough provenance to be certain Mary actual owned it and wore it in the style it has today. The black and white taffeta in their collection has undergone extensive, structural alterations. None of the trim on the dress appears to be original, and the waist has been completely remade.

I think Katherine Helm is probably closer to the truth than any of the others. Mary probably weighed about 130 lbs upon entering the White House. Her weight escalated after Lincoln's death. Then while living in France, she lost her girth and more, thus only weighing 100 lbs when she died.