Mary Lincoln's Fashions

[Eva Elisabeth]

Roger, I'm sorry, I accidentally deleted my post when I wanted to correct something. I tried to re-research and re-write it as well as possible. Voilà:

(07-20-2014 09:21 AM)L Verge Wrote:  Has there ever been a complete description of the gown as to type of fabric, handwork, quality of lace, etc.?

Laurie, I tried to research this. I didn't find much, but some interesting "inauguration" accounts, asides and sites (1st+2nd). Maybe I should start a new thread, but since your question and Mary's fashions and appearance was my paramount focus, I post all this here.

At the first inaugural ball Mary wore a watered blue silk gown with pearls, gold bracelets, and diamonds, and embroidered with velvet representing small bouquets of varicolored flowers. (Just to remember and visualize, it was this one: )
   
A few days before the Inauguration, a Washington journalist commented: "The ladies are dying to see how Mrs. Lincoln fills the place of Miss Lane (Buchanan's popular niece/hostess); how Madame is dressed, how she looks, how she will do."

Obviously she did quite well, since one account reads: "Mrs. LINCOLN appeared remarkably well; she wore a very tasteful and becoming head-dress, and a low-necked lavender silk, of exquisite shade, perfect fit, and evident richness. Her lace was point, her jewelry was the simple diamond, and her attire such as commended itself to the good taste, the sense of propriety and the love of the beautiful of every person in the room. It was a general remark that LINCOLN was an infinitely better-looking man than he was represented, and that Mrs. LINCOLN was evidently a lady of refinement, of tact and of taste."

Mary remained to dance and talk long after Lincoln had retired at midnight. Here's the program:
   
The New York Times of March 6, 1861 commented: "They danced, talked, flirted, chatted, supped most bounteously, had a splendid time, and all that sort of thing, affording a series of items unrivaled for sketches, but as the cars are soon to go, I must close by stating that this Inauguration Ball is considered to have been one of the pleasantest and most enjoyable of any ever given in this good City of Washington. " The entire article is worth reading: http://www.nytimes.com/1861/03/06/news/i...ssful.html )

Here's another fascinating (!!!) article on the entire day: http://www.brettschulte.net/CWBlog/2011/...uguration/

Only four days later, on the night of March 8, 1861, the Lincolns held their first levee. It was called a "Monster Levée," a "Monster Gathering." The ball, originally limited to two hours, continued for two more, and was described by an enthusiastic eyewitness as follows:

"The first evening reception, or levee, of the new family of the White House came off this evening. Advertised as limited to the two hours between eight and ten, it continued nearly two hours longer. It was a jam, it was a rush, it was a cram, it was a crush, it was an omnium gatherum of all sorts of people...an 'irrepressible conflict', a suffocating pressure, an overwhelming manifestation of private interest and public curiosity in the new dynasty without precedent for comparison in the history of this government...The ladies are dying to see how Mrs. Lincoln fills the place of Miss Lane ; . . . how she looks, how she will do; what ladies are assisting in the honors of the occasion, how they are dressed, and how they will do. . . .After an hour's crushing and pushing and suffocation in this energetic mob, fresh and strong from the body of the people, we are rewarded with a propulsive movement in the rear, which nearly precipitates our whole part of five into Abraham's bosom. Our ladies blush with shame and indignation; but promptly recovering their self-possession, the are introduced to 'Old Abe,' who shakes their hands cordially, smiles graciously, address them familiarly, and we pass onto Mrs. Lincoln, who, nearer the centre of the room, maintains her position with the steadiness of one of the Imperial Guard. She is neither tall nor slender in her figure, but rather below the medium height, with the well-rounded proportions of a wholesome little Western matron . . . . dressed on this occasion in what the ladies call a Magenta (brilliant red) watered silk, with a lace cape, and with her abundant light brown hair tastefully relieved by a half-dozen red and white japonicas in a wreath behind the ears. . . . The debut of Mrs. Lincoln was pronounced satisfactory by the ladies competent to decide."

As for the second inauguration, the ball was held on March 6, 1865, two days after the actual swearing in. The Smithsonian Magazine wrote that a $10 ticket would admit three people to the ball, which was held at the Patent Office Building (now the Smithsonian American Art Museum and National Portrait Gallery). 4,000 people attended, and danced quadrilles, waltzes and Virginia reels. Mrs. Lincoln, with jasmine and violets woven in her hair, wore a white satin off-the-shoulder gown.
   
Another account reads Mary was dressed "in white silk with a bertha of point lace, a lace shawl over her shoulders, jasmine and violets in her hair, and carrying an ermine fan with silver spangles."

The NY Times wrote: "Mrs. LINCOLN looked extremely well, and was attired in the most elegant manner; her dress was made of white satin, very ample and rich, but almost entirely covered by a tunic or rather skirt of the finest point applique. Her corsage, which was low, and the short sleeves, were ornamented richly by a berthe made of the same material, and the shawl, also of the same rich lace, was most exquisite. Passementerie of narrow fluted satin ribbon and nouds completed the dress. Her jewels were of the rarest pearls, necklace, ear-rings, brooch and bracelets. Her hair, which was put plainly back from her face, was ornamented with trailing jessamine and clustering violets most gracefully. She looked exceedingly well with her soft, white complexion, and her toilet was faultless. Her manners are very easy and affable." (Entirely worth reading, too: http://www.nytimes.com/1865/03/08/news/i...onies.html )

BTW, the temperature on that day was 45℉. And you sure know that the sun broke through the rain clouds when Abraham Lincoln began his address!