Mary Lincoln's Fashions

[RJNorton]

An announcement from the Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library and Museum:

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Culture of Clothing

Monday, November 19, 6:30 p.m.

If “the clothes make the man,” what do they do for a woman? Particularly a woman enduring tragedy in the public eye? A new event explores those questions by looking at the fashions Mary Lincoln wore at different stages of her tumultuous life.

Taking place throughout the Abraham Lincoln Presidential Museum, the “Culture of Clothing” will feature Mary Lincoln’s fashions as a homemaker, a first lady and a widow in mourning after the loss of three sons and a husband. Models wearing custom designed versions of her dresses and jewelry will mingle with visitors and answer questions about the clothing. Actresses portraying Lincoln’s African American seamstress, Elizabeth Keckley, and pioneering lawyer Myra Bradwell will also circulate to discuss their work and women’s lives in that era. In addition, Holly M. Kent, Ph.D, Assistant Professor of History at the University of Illinois Springfield and a fashion history expert, will provide insight into the design of historic dresses.

“Culture of Clothing” was developed by the Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library and Museum and the Illinois Supreme Court Historic Preservation Commission. Mira Horoszowski of Mira Couture produced new versions of the four Lincoln dresses.

The “Culture of Clothing” is part of a year-long look at Mary Lincoln’s life and the role of 19th century women. Other events include two re-trials of the former first lady on insanity charges and a panel discussion that compared 19th and 21st century mental health laws, treatment and attitudes.

[BettyO]

Wow - sounds great, Roger!

Wish I could attend this one.... thanks!

[Donna McCreary]

I spoke with one of the models earlier today, and am looking forward to hearing her 'review' afterwards. I so wish I could attend this one!

[Eva Elisabeth]

At the reception on Feb.5, 1862, Mary wore a white silk gown with dozens of black flowers to express her sympathy for Queen Victoria due to Prince Albert's death on Dec.14.
Does any picture of this dress exist?

[Donna McCreary]

(02-11-2014 09:04 AM)Eva Elisabeth Wrote:  At the reception on Feb.5, 1862, Mary wore a white silk gown with dozens of black flowers to express her sympathy for Queen Victoria due to Prince Albert's death on Dec.14.
Does any picture of this dress exist?

There is not a photograph, but there is an engraving of the gown Mary wore on Feb. 5, 1862. There is not one mention in any contemporary piece that Mary wore "dozens of black flowers" that evening. Her white silk gown was trimmed with flounces of black lace and black bows. In her book, Julia Taft Bayne wrote that even though there were rumors that Mary wore mourning to express sympathy for Queen Victoria, in reality, she did not for to do so would not have been received well by the American public.
For a detailed description of Mary's gown, please see page 73 of Fashionable First Lady: The Victorian Wardrobe of Mary Lincoln.

[Eva Elisabeth]

Thank you very much, Donna. Is the engraving in your book?

There's an engraving on p.115 here: https://archive.org/stream/perleysreminisce6875poor - next to the text passage which describes her wardrobe as follows:

"Mrs.Lincoln was dressed in a white satin dress with low neck and short sleeves.It was trimmed with black lace flounces,which were looped up with knots of ribbon, and she wore a floral head-dress, which was not very becoming."

But the dress in this engraving doesn't seem to have any black lace flounces?!?

I came across the "dozens of black flowers in remembrance of Prince Albert" in Kevin Peraino's "Lincoln in the World". His sources are Catherine Clinton's "Mrs. Lincoln", Jean Baker's "M.T.L.", and Perley's Reminiscences (above). Jean Baker also mentiones "hundered of black flounces", so the newspaper articles etc. she refers to sure won't differ from that. I don't have C. Clinton's book and thus can't trace this way back.
However, Donna, when you say there is no contemporary source for "black flowers" then it's probably a matter of poetic license by Mr. Peraino. But from flounces to flowers? Personally, I would find both depressing for a trimming of a white dress (though I think it was not uncommon), but black flowers far more, so for me mourning would have made sense. (Although white lilies usually symbolize death, but maybe not in the Victorian rituals). Nevertheless I would have loved to see such a dress!

Thanks, Donna, also for the reference to Julia Taft's book! This seems in the end another contraindication as she writes: "At the time of...the death of the Prince Consort..., it was rumored...that Mrs. Lincoln intended to follow the example of European courts and put Tue 'Republican Court' into ceremonial mourning, the women wearing purple dresses." Purple, not white thus.

[Gene C]

At the Lincoln Museum in Springfield, there was part of an exhibit that had some very tacky and unfavorable comments about Mrs. Lincoln's fashion style, (or lack of it), especially comments about low necklines. They were vicious. Her critics would have fit right in with Joan Rivers and the Fashion Police.

[RJNorton]

I have Lloyd Ostendorf's booklet titled The Photographs of Mary Todd Lincoln. I tried to find a photo nearest to the date Eva mentioned. I don't know if Mr. Ostendorf's date is correct, but he cites this as being one of 9 exposures taken at Brady's Washington gallery on or about January 11, 1862. He says she changed dresses during the session because two poses show her in a different one. It was once mentioned that Lloyd Ostendorf got some of his dates wrong, so I don't know how accurate (or inaccurate) the January 11, 1862, date is for this photo. Ostendorf describes this as a "light-ruffled skirt dress."

[Eva Elisabeth]

Thanks, Roger! I was wondering if it had been that dress but didn't know about the date. Is it possible that she had taken off the said black flounces for the photo?
I like this dress, and I like it on her! As Gene said, she was more than once critisized for her outfit. Prince Napoleon e.g. said that "Mrs. Lincoln was dressed in the French style without any taste", and I believe I read further similar comments by others, too.

So, what is your opinion: Were her dresses/outfits becoming? Why (not)? What about the floral hair-dresses, low necklines, etc.?

As for the low necklines - I'm quite sure Abraham Lincoln liked them!

[Gene C]

As for the low necklines, Elizabeth Keckley repeats a comment she heard the president make. He wasn't that thrilled with them. I'll try to find the quote from her book when I get home, unless someone wants to beat me to it.

Can't say I care for her hair styles. In may have been the popular style back then, but IMO I don't think it's flatering to her.

Here is an interesting photo from the Lincoln Museum. (I didn't take it)
http://rememberingletters.files.wordpres...s-gown.jpg

The one in the back right was gorgeous.

[RJNorton]

(02-12-2014 12:43 PM)Gene C Wrote:  As for the low necklines, Elizabeth Keckley repeats a comment she heard the president make. He wasn't that thrilled with them. I'll try to find the quote from her book when I get home, unless someone wants to beat me to it.

Gene, I think this may be the quote you are thinking of. Mary was wearing a dress that had a long train and was low cut. Abraham saw her and remarked, "Whew, our cat has a long tale tonight…it is my opinion that if some of that tail were nearer the head, it would be in better style.”

I once read somewhere that Mary preferred low cut gowns with short sleeves that displayed her smooth arms and neck.

[Eva Elisabeth]

Great photo, Gene!

As for Mary's floral hair-dresses, this puts me on the fence, too.

Thanks Gene and Roger for the quote! Quite a statement! I was, too, trying to recall what Abraham Lincoln said about Mary's appearance and style. I'm so sure he made at least one very positive comment at one occasion (might be illusion though). The only I could find right now is this one by Emilie T. Helm who recalled that Elizabeth T. Edwards "had invited all of us to a supper party. Sister Mary had just finished a new dress, it was a white silk with blue brocaded flowers scattered over it in bunches and little garlands. When Mr. Lincoln came from his office Mary reminded him it was time to change for the party. He looked at her with a smile. 'Fine feathers enough on you to make fine birds of both of us.' Noticing her dress still further, he said, 'Those posies on your dress are the color of your eyes.' Mary dimpled with pleasure: 'You see, Emilie, I am training my husband to see color. I do not think he knew pink from blue when I married him.'" (Henry Villard: "Memoirs", Volume I, p. 156-157.)

If anyone knows any further comment(s) he made on this topic (positive or not), please post!

[L Verge]

In the photo that Gene linked to, I would be delighted to have any one of those dresses - back in the days when I dressed in period dress at Surratt House. They are all lovely, imo. Elizabeth Keckly had a wonderful reputation as a dress designer and modiste. She had cut her teeth on high society in Washington before Mrs. Lincoln arrived in the city. I do not believe that she would have dressed the First Lady in anything that was objectionable, and the photos that we see of Mrs. Lincoln appear to be high fashion.

The frontal views of hair styles in those days are severe with the center part and the sides pulled back. The "interest" of hair styles then was supposed to be focused on the back views. The hair garlands remind me of the hippy days of the 1960s.

I believe that I'm correct in saying that the Empress Eugenie was the fashion plate to be emulated at that time. And, I would never give a French aristocrat the chance to critique anything American. We were all a bunch of backwoods bumpkins to them. As for whom to compare Mary Lincoln to in modern First Ladies? My choice would be Laura Bush most of the time, but Nancy Reagan when it came to evening attire.

[Eva Elisabeth]

Actually floral hair girlands are nowadays still Victorian (or Victoria's) fashion:
   

[L Verge]

Many a bride of my generation wore such garlands as these on their wedding day. Pity the groom who might have allergies. Weren't many of the 19th-century garlands made out of artificial materials? Silk flowers were popular then also.