White clothing in summer?

[Donna McCreary]

One of my favorite descriptions of men's clothing comes from "Victorian and Edwardian Fashion - A Photographic Survey" by Alison Gernsheim: "A leading tailor deplored that black frock coats were sometimes to be seen at weddings. For such a festive occasion the frock coat should be made of blue, claret, or mulberry-colored cloth, with or without a velvet collar, and worn with a white waistcoat and pale lavender trousers. This outfit was recommended for the bridegroom as well as the guests."
Laurie, can you imagine John Surrat wearing lavender trousers? I think it is quite an image.

Various quotes I have read regarding Lincoln's clothing include one which states during the Lincoln - Douglas debates Lincoln wore "a snuff-colored, short coated suit during one debate, again white linen, and once a white linen duster over a blue suit with brass buttons." The last one is my personal favorite.

During his presidency, Lincoln was seen wearing "a well starched linen coat and pants with a plush waistcoat, of a sort of plum color."
A visitor to Washington in 1864 remembered Lincoln wearing a "fashionable cut blue chinchilla coat and a brand new silk hat of the latest mode with buff colored gloves."
Now . . that is high fashion!

Gene, yes, we do realize that white is difficult to keep clean. However, fabric dyes being what they were in the era, white fabric was washable whereas many other fabrics lost their color during the cleaning process. This is one reason why under garments were always white. Plus, since men and women had to maintain the latest fashions, people of 'station' were expected to replace their clothing on an annual basis. One would often wear a garment until it was too dirty to wear again, then replace it.