Fanny Seward's dress

[Eva Elisabeth]

(02-16-2015 01:41 PM)RJNorton Wrote:  

(02-16-2015 11:05 AM)L Verge Wrote:  Lavender and purple were colors used when coming out of full mourning...

Regarding the January 1, 1864, New Year's Day reception, journalist Noah Brooks wrote:

The President looks better since he has had the varioloid. I don’t mean to insinuate that the disease has added any new charms to his features; but his complexion is clearer, his eyes less lack-luster and he has a hue of health to which he has long been a stranger. He stood up manfully against the great crush and bore the hand-shaking like a blessed old martyr, as he is. My feminine readers will be interested to know that Mrs. Lincoln wore a purple velvet dress, decorated with white satin flutings (isn’t that what you call it?) around the bottom; Valenciennes lace was on the sleeves, and an immense train flowed out behind. Mrs. Lincoln never looked better than in the dark, rich tones of her reception dress, in which she has, for the first time, left off her mourning garb….”

Could Mary's choice of color be indicating to everyone that she was finally coming out of mourning for Willie?

I think you are right (and a little over a year later, at the 2nd inaugural ball, she even wore a white satin off-the-shoulder gown with jasmine and violets woven in her hair).
Roger, the description matches pretty well a dress she wore during the Washington winter social season in 1861–62 (despite the white satin flutings around the bottom):
   
Is it possible she wore an "old" dress again for such an occasion?