What was Booth wearing?

[Rick Smith]

What kind of tie does one wear with a flannel shirt?

I think you're right Gene, Booth was wearing all black, and his button up shirt was flannel, and I'm almost sure he wasn't wearing a tie. His Frock coat, (which was double breasted and accepted as formal day time full dress, thus relegating the dress coat exclusively to evening full dress.), and when worn with formal evening full dress, it would normally be worn with a white tie. The Frock coats often were designed with peaked lapels, which also allowed the coat to be worn as informal wear. Booth was using his Frock coat as an informal piece, as he was dressed "dapper" country, and ready to ride (wearing his black riding or calf- length boots rather than the traditional dress Cavalry boots.)

Booth was wearing riding boots that were tall enough to reach to mid thigh. These boots were made this way so as to help grip while in the saddle. We know this as there is one on display at Ford's. My feeling is that he would have been wearing a tie. The flannel shirt he wore was not like a flannel shirt from LL Bean. It would have been made like most men's shirts of the period; with a stand or fall collar and front button placket which means the shirt is pulled on over the head.